I started from scratch again. I took new front and back rise measurements, and had to construct my pattern in two halves as I don’t have paper large enough to accommodate the pattern. I also double checked my math and discovered that for some reason the first time around, I concluded that 35+1=39 when calculating the width necessary for my thighs plus ease plus seams. I also retook my waist measurement and was much relieved to discover that I have not put on 3” in two months after all. Whew! For the waistband, I added only 6” for the overlap rather than the original 12” that was called for in the instructions. I made the drawers up following the same method as the first draft, and these fit so much better. I can actually wear them. This time I used muslin instead of batiste because I didn’t want to waste any more fabric until I got the fit correct. When cutting the fabric, I kind of cheated. I laid out only the back half of the pattern on my fabric and marked it out, then marked the front height on only one side and adjusted the waistline cut after. This resulted in both inseam cuts being made together so they were a perfect match when stitching them up. I liked it that way.
Regarding the fit, I think I should add a little more in the rise for ease. If I hike them right up, they do indeed fit my waist fine, but they are a bit uncomfortable bunching up in my crotch. Dropping them down to the level referred to as mid-rise for jeans made the crotch much more comfortable. Next time I will add just another inch or two to the rise. I did add the ease recommended in the instructions, it just isn’t enough for my body.
Another thing I will do differently next time is to square the center back corner. I drew it with a straight line as shown in the diagram, but it would have been much easier to work with if I had made the corner a 90* angle for even one inch and then dropped down towards the front. I also smoothed out the center side, where the front and back waistlines meet. I prefer working with smooth curves when gathering than with hard angles. Since I had a 7” difference in front and back rise, the angle was a bit prominent. I had never considered myself to have such ample endowment in the rear, but apparently I do. Providing a square angle at the waist I imagine will also help the overlap lay more smoothly.
I gathered the waist fairly evenly across the length of it, but when I put them on, I discovered that there were symptoms of poor fit in the crotch. I assume this is the result of the style and cut rather than fitting, because of the fact that we use a straight line for the crotch “seam” rather than the curve that is used modernly. Modern pants use a curved crotch and straight inseam, whereas this pattern seems to do pretty much the opposite. I am not too worried about trying to make the “smile” go away.
The tucks came out nicely with the ¼” sizing, but there is still some adjustments I need to make. If using tucks that are ¼” deep, taking up ½” of fabric, then I need to add ½” per tuck to the overall length from waist to cuff, but I need to keep 1” per tuck square at the calf. I believe that it is a 1:2 ratio of extra fabric length: amount kept square at calf, regardless of the size of the tucks. If I am wrong, please let me know. I have never worked with tucks before and would gladly learn more.
Overall, I am so far very pleased with how this pair turned out. They are certainly wearable, whereas the batiste ones are not – at least not for me. Since I had never really heard of split drawers before, I would love to hear your experiences with them.